Which Film Camera for Beginners and Newcomers?

There are many different types of film cameras. But which of them make sense for beginners? Which types are relevant for beginners to analog photography? I recommend two types here.

There are many different film cameras. However, not all of them are suitable for beginners.

If you want to get a taste of analog photography, you may be overwhelmed by the many different cameras on offer. They are all analog, but which one is suitable for a beginner? Many of these film cameras look very similar, while others are completely different.

I would like to use this article to give you some tips and recommendations. First, let’s take a quick look at the type of film suitable for beginners, because to make things a little more complicated, there are also different types:

Beginners should choose a Camera for 35mm Film

Within analog photography, two types of film are initially relevant:

One is the well-known 35mm film with its iconic perforation (holes on the edge) in the typical film cartridge and the other is ‘type 120’ film – the big brother, which is available for larger medium format cameras.

Thirdly, there is also sheet film (for so-called “large format cameras”). However, these cameras are completely unsuitable for beginners in analog photography. Most medium format cameras are also not recommended at first ^x. It is therefore the classic 35 mm film or 35 mm camera that is relevant for beginners. Most of the famous analog photographs were probably taken with a 35 mm camera.

^xMedium format cameras are usually expensive, prone to errors, rarely have exposure electronics and significantly fewer images fit on a roll of film.

Now that the question of the appropriate film format has been clarified, we need to go into a little more detail. Because as already mentioned above: There are an incredible number of these 35mm cameras.

And these two 35mm camera types will now be presented in more detail. In the course of the article, I will also give some tips on specific models. However, many of these cameras are very similar in terms of their functionality: The second-hand market today still offers a great many working models from many manufacturers at reasonable prices.

Let’s start with the pocket rocket, also known as:

The Point-and-Shoot Camera

Pentax PC 35 AF

Originally, these point-and-shoot cameras were in their day (late 1980s to 2000s) what the smartphone is today: take it out of your pocket, point and shoot. These analog cameras were sold to users who wanted photography to be as simple as possible. You didn’t need to know anything about photographic technology – except how to load film.

An example photo taken with such a point-and-shoot camera: I was just coming up the stairs to this monument and spotted the stern warden in his white shirt. I immediately pulled out the point-and-shoot, pushed aside the protective lens cap, took aim and pulled the trigger.

Ssssrrrrt, the film is wound to the next frame by the integrated motor. I couldn’t have done it any faster with my smartphone. These cameras are ideal for spontaneous moments like this. Everything works automatically here. Manual intervention is hardly / not possible here. Of course, this is no substitute for a good sense of image composition.

Ricoh FF 70

At the time, these types of film cameras were not even called point & shoots (at least in Germany). They here were simply marketed as “compact cameras” and almost every family in the nineties had one of these with them on vacation and at the fair.

In the 90s, analog compact cameras were used in the same way that smartphones are used to take photos today.

Ironically, some artistic photo magazines today also print current photos that were deliberately taken with such cameras: At some point, photo artists such as Terry Richardson came up with the idea of using such cameras and, unfortunately, the prices for some special models of this type of camera (Yashica T2, T3, T4; Contax T2; Olympus Mju 2, …) subsequently rose.

However, there are still a lot of these ‘pocket rockets’ that are not traded so high, i.e. are quite cheap (around 20 to 80 euros on the private second-hand market). A “Braun Trend AF”, for example, is available for less than 10 euros via an eBay auction. The batteries for this should also still be available new and cost just as much.

These 35mm cameras all look very similar and their basic functions are all the same:

Characteristic of the cheaper of these analog compact cameras are a rather soft image characteristic and sometimes slight vignetting at the edges of the image. They are rarely fitted with particularly high-quality lenses, which was mostly due to their very compact dimensions and affordable price.

Some highly sought-after models such as this ‘Yashica T5’ are unfortunately abstruse in price today. However, their features are also better than those of the masses (especially the lens).

They also almost always have a moderate wide-angle lens, some have a zoom lens. The date can be imprinted on some of these cameras. Together with the typical red-eye effect when the integrated flash fires, these analog cameras create the look of the 1990s if you use color negative film and simply hand it in to the drugstore later for development.

It should be noted that such analog compact cameras can often be quite loud. This is due to the integrated motor in the small housing. Especially when the film is automatically rewound back into the cartridge after the last picture, you don’t want to be sitting in a theater with it. That would be very embarrassing.

These cameras are predestined for just snapping pictures. However, there are also photo artists (such as Tobias Zielony) who consciously appreciate this very minimalist type of analog photography, reduced to the shutter release, and who presumably want to counteract somewhat conservative ideas of technical image quality.

Typical photo using an analog point & shoot camera and the integrated flash.

As an incredible number of different types of these compact cameras have been produced and I don’t normally take photos with them, I can’t name any specific models at this point. They are very similar. The more expensive, sought-after ones have already been mentioned above.

There is a colorful selection of many point-and-shoot cameras on the second-hand market.

However, if you want to have more in-depth control over the final image and a higher image quality, the following camera type is much more suitable:

The classic SLR Camera

There are an incredible number of these film cameras. They all look the same from a distance – such as the Pentax Spotmatic F shown here. These single-lens reflex cameras are the standard, so to speak. You can’t go wrong with them – but you can do a lot. However, operation is not quite as simple as with the previously presented point-and-shoot cameras.

“Praktica” brand cameras are particularly inexpensive (although they are made in (East) Germany). For example, the “MTL 50” shown here is a good analog SLR camera that can be purchased with a standard lens for little money (approx. 50 euros /-) on the second-hand market (at least in Europe).

The built-in mirror therefore only has something to do with the image composition, not with the quality of the actual shot. However, the lenses on these cameras are often of a higher optical quality than on compact cameras.

In contrast to the fully electronic point & shoot cameras, with mechanical SLR cameras you can (or even have to) control the exposure and aperture manually. You also have to set the focus manually. Shooting is much slower with these types of cameras and you have to think a little. But the image quality is different in the end.

Such analog portrait photographs with a lot of background blur are best taken with the typical SLR camera, where you can set the aperture on the front of the lens (high value = high depth of field; low value = weak depth of field). In addition, the viewfinder system is much better than the tiny peepholes of “compact cameras” – you can see the subject on the screen in the viewfinder exactly as it will appear later in the picture.

Note: Such portrait photographs may later undergo the process of “darkening” in the darkroom or on the computer: the edges of the image are artificially darkened so that the actual subject is visually better emphasized. Of course, the camera itself does not do this.

Illustration of a typical viewfinder image of a manual SLR film camera: On the side there is a pointer or LEDs for exposure metering. In the center there is a viewing aid for manual focusing.

However, it is difficult to take photos on the fly with such mechanical film cameras. You have to arrange them more precisely, perhaps even mount them on a tripod, correct the metered exposure using the corresponding controller if necessary, and perhaps check the manual focusing once again.

These SLR cameras can then be used to take classic portraits or sophisticated landscape and architectural shots. Of course, they are also suitable for quick reportage and milieu photography. However, you should be more familiar with this technique and be able to use it blindly.

Interior of a factory ruin: such carefully composed shots are best taken with a classic SLR camera positioned on a tripod.

The typical SLR camera for shooting film is characterized by the following features:

Hmm – a digital camera? No: The later analog SLR cameras (later 90s) often already looked like today’s digital cameras. They have an autopilot (automatic mode) and automatic focusing. In addition, the film is transported by an integrated motor and there is a digital display in the viewfinder.

These cameras are therefore also suitable for beginners. However, the “analog feel” of photography is certainly lost with them. Most of these film cameras are much cheaper on the second-hand market than their manual metal ancestors – it used to be the other way around. They are simply quite unpopular today.

Of course, you can also take sophisticated photographs with such plastic cameras!

If you want to take analog pictures in automatic mode and enjoy the advantages of a SLR camera (you can of course also operate it manually), these 90s cameras may even be the better choice for you. They basically work in exactly the same way as digital SLR cameras – only with film

The necessary batteries should still be available today. However, many of these cameras quickly become electronic waste or are difficult to repair. However, they are usually very cheap on the second-hand market.

Recommended Camera Types

There are also an incredible number of models of the old, manual (i.e. without motor / without autofocus) SLR film cameras from various manufacturers. However, we can list a few recommendable or frequently produced types here.

The budget should not exceed the limit of approx. 120 euros (if buying from a private individual). In addition, the necessary batteries must still be available to buy today. Here is a list of some suggestions for film cameras for beginners:

• Praktica MTL 50
  You can see a picture of this camera a little further up in this article. Prakticas are cheaper than the well-known Japanese cameras. They are not as filigree and sophisticated, but have an unmistakable design. However, the MTL 50 in particular is an interesting SLR camera for beginners. It has the widely used M42 lens thread. For exposure metering, the aperture still has to be closed using a switch, which is unfortunately often the case with cameras with M42 lenses, but is often just a matter of getting used to. This is solved more elegantly on other cameras with “open aperture metering”.
• Pentax Spotmatic F
  The Spotmatic F from Pentax can also be admired in the picture above. In contrast to the lightweight Praktica, it is more of a tank: heavy, full metal, the camera with which you can drive the proverbial nail into the wall. This Pentax also (still) uses the M42 thread for interchangeable lenses (and no bayonet). With lenses designed for this purpose, however, the aforementioned “open aperture metering” is possible. Cameras of such heavy quality are no longer produced today.
• Revueflex AC 2
  This is actually a “re-labeled” Japanese camera from Chinon. It was sold under the name “Revueflex” in the “Quelle” catalog in Germany and is therefore very often available used today (at very attractive prices / in Germany). It is not a special feature, not a beauty. However, it is reliable and thanks to the auto mode, the exposure time does not need to be readjusted (it is set automatically on an ad hoc basis). Purely manual operation is also possible. The Revueflex / Chinon uses the Pentax K bayonet for the lenses.
• Canon AE-1
  One of the best-known film cameras from Canon and in general is the “AE-1”. It is just within the set budget, if you are lucky, usually a little more expensive. This camera is very well documented because it is often used. This Canon has automatic aperture control: the camera can set the aperture automatically. Of course, you can also intervene manually. There is a picture of the AE-1 a little further down.
• Ricoh KR-5
  The Ricoh KR-5 may not be as pretty to look at as a Canon. On the other hand, it is an extremely robust camera which, unlike the Praktica, does not require an extra switch to be pressed down for exposure metering. It can also be found quite cheaply on the second-hand market and also has the Pentax K lens bayonet, for which many inexpensive lenses are available.
• Nikon EM & Pentax ME
  These two “cute” analog SLR cameras are somewhat out of the ordinary: They don’t offer a manual mode – but they do offer a very beginner-friendly auto-exposure mode. All you have to do is pre-select the desired aperture and the camera automatically sets the exposure time. One less perhaps confusing control element. However, long exposures (B mode) are possible with both. Due to the limited functionality, they are quite cheap on the second-hand market. If in doubt, I would go for the Pentax, as the old Nikon lenses are more expensive (as they can also be used digitally) and it is apparently supposed to be slightly better than the Nikon.
• Nikon FG or FG-20
  Unfortunately, most analog Nikon SLR cameras are quite expensive. The FG with lens is probably just within the budget. Why is it also useful for beginners in analog photography? Because there are hardly any controls that distract from the essentials: Preselect the aperture on the lens and the appropriate exposure time is automatically set in A mode. But you can also shoot in P mode: Then you don’t even have to set the aperture (doesn’t work with all lenses). In contrast to the Nikon EM just mentioned, you can also intervene completely manually. The “FG-20” is an FG with reduced functionality: It lacks the aforementioned P mode (program automatic).
• Yashica FX-1
  In contrast to its predecessors from the Yashica family, the FX-1 no longer uses an M42 screw thread but its own bayonet. This also eliminates the need to press down a lever for exposure metering. It even has an auto mode, which means that it is no longer absolutely necessary to compare the set aperture with the pointer in the viewfinder. The exposure times can still be selected manually. Roughly speaking, these Yashicas are much cheaper on the second-hand market than Nikon or Canon.
• Minolta X-700
  Minolta is also cheaper than Nikon. The X-700 is a very high-quality film camera (the X-500 is also very similar). It was not built for beginners at the time, but is (currently) quite attractively priced. As with all the cameras presented here, the Minolta’s operating concept is very clearly laid out and you will quickly find your way around. The special features that make it a camera for advanced photographers, among others, will certainly not get in the way of a beginner. If you want to stick with analog photography, you can save yourself the trouble of buying an even better equipped 35mm camera later on. As this Minolta already uses a lot of plastic, it is not for lovers of beautiful silver metal cameras such as the Pentax Spotmatic shown above.
  

  The Minolta X-700 is a relatively small and sophisticated SLR camera with a bright viewfinder. However, its production is based more on plastic.

Of course, this list should only be seen as a rough recommendation. There are many, very similar cameras that – since they do not appear in such lists – are certainly traded even cheaper second-hand, albeit less frequently.

Nikon and Canon, for example, are quite expensive brands – presumably because they are still relevant today. Analog cameras from brands such as Yashica, Olympus, Minolta, Fujica, Konica, … are cheaper and often offer a similar range of features. There are other manufacturers who have produced high-quality and beginner-friendly 35mm cameras. Underdogs such as Kowa, Topcon, Sigma or Miranda are hardly known (at least in my region) and should generally be quite cheap. (But beware of the battery problem, see below.)

This ‘Pentax P30’ is just another example of one of the many analog SLR cameras that are also suitable for beginners thanks to their simple operating concept and their low price on the second-hand market.

The ‘Canon AE1 Program’ is one of the best-known 35mm cameras. However, it is usually a little more expensive – but it is well documented and has worked reliably for many decades.

In my opinion, one of the most beautiful film cameras is the “Olympus OM-1” from the late 1970s. With a bit of luck, you can find it in good condition for a good price with a 50mm lens (under 160 euros).

Why is it not on the list? Because it requires the infamous ‘mercury batteries’ (see below). However, the Olympus OM-1 is a purely mechanical camera: it also works without batteries – the power is only needed for the internal light meter. With a online exposure time calculator or just with a smartphone app, you can determine the correct exposure time. Its no less beautiful successor – the “OM-2” – can, as far as I know, be operated with batteries that are still available today.

In the light of day and strictly speaking, such a model is no longer an ‘entry-level camera’ – but here, too, you only set the exposure time and aperture. Due to the relatively low prices on the second-hand market today, it should not go unmentioned.

The SLR camera is predestined for playing with sharpness and blurriness: You can see this immediately in the viewfinder.

The aperture setting on the lens controls the intensity of the depth of field.

The right Lens

Most 35 mm SLR cameras were certainly sold together with a fixed focal length of 50 mm with a speed of approx. 1.8 to 2.8. These lenses are often still attached to the cameras on the second-hand market. You can’t go far wrong with them and they are relatively cheap and actually all good.

High contrast and sharp right into the corners – that’s no problem for the normal 50mm fixed focal lengths. With simple zoom lenses it becomes a little more critical.

These focal lengths are particularly suitable for full-body or half-portraits – but not for head portraits, as you would have to get even closer to a person and this would result in distortion (bulbous-looking noses).

(You would need a light telephoto lens for this.)

My preferred focal length, however, is the very light wide angle of 35 mm. I find the 50 mm angle of view too narrow. (City) landscapes are the ideal subject for the 35 mm lenses. I hardly ever need a different focal length. However, they are less suitable for classic portraits.

My favorite focal length on the 35mm camera is the 35mm lens.

Unfortunately, all focal lengths beyond 50 mm are often quite expensive – especially with Nikon or Canon.

A little Hint

A small note should be made at this point regarding all these mechanical SLR cameras: Technically, they are all nothing more than a light-tight housing with a lens on the front and a (loaded) film on the back.

In other words, you can theoretically take excellent photographs with all of them. The image quality is primarily determined by the lens used and also the respective film. I was recently browsing through an illustrated book by the German photographer Harald Kirschner in a bookshop. As far as I know, the photographer shot many series with a simple Praktica camera in the 80s. With a much more expensive Nikon F3, for example, these pictures would hardly have been any better.

A classic portrait photo with the SLR: Some of these models have a correction setting for backlighting: subtleties like this make up the differences between the models, but are not necessarily relevant for beginners.

What to look out for when buying

Before you buy a used film camera, there are a few things you should consider:

Are the Batteries still available?

The necessary batteries (‘cells’) should still be commercially available.

Background: Some old 35mm cameras want to be supplied with ‘mercury batteries’ (more information here). However, the sale of these is prohibited in the EU (There may be exceptions for the USA or for some US states if you are from that country). However, most of these affected cameras also work without batteries (as these are only responsible for the internal light meter).

The cameras listed here are all compatible with batteries available today (this statement is without guarantee for safety reasons).

specific, mercury-free replacement cells

However, there are replacement batteries for precisely this problem: button cells in the right size (e.g. “PX625”) and the right voltage (1.35 volts) are offered under the “WeinCell” brand. The packaging even lists some of the relevant film cameras.

Tip: You can also use very cheap hearing aid batteries. However, you may need to build an adapter, as many of them will be too small (or too large).

Brittle Light Seals

The light seals and mirror dampers of cameras that are decades old are often no longer intact. These are made of simple foam or foam rubber, which you can also replace yourself:

This old, crumbling foam over the mirror (to cushion it) can be removed quite easily and replaced with a new one using a thin strip of double-sided adhesive tape, which you can cut yourself from soft foam. The same applies to replacing the light seals on the rear flap.

Operating Instructions available?

If you can find them, you should read through the operating instructions.

For many years, Butkus.org has been the place to go on the Internet if you are looking for special instructions for old photographic technology. Often you can actually find the instruction manual for the camera model you have just purchased there (even if only in English) for free download.

To summarize

The easiest way to get started with analog photography as a beginner is certainly with one of the many (inexpensive) point-and-shoot cameras. These expose quite accurately and everything runs in automatic mode. There are also manual viewfinder and rangefinder cameras. However, these are either prone to errors, rare (or expensive) or they have the aforementioned battery problem.

If you have specific image ideas, you will be better off with a manually operated, technically robust SLR analog camera. For beginners, there are many inexpensive and high-quality models with a large selection of lenses on the second-hand market.